Sunday night dinner at Chun Po, Malvern

Chun Po, on Glenferrie Rd, Malvern, is a new discovery. As you can see, it’s worth driving across town for.

The Peking duck san choy bao was super-fresh, with just the right ratio of water chestnut to duck. Importantly, the lettuce leaf was crunchy. The deep-fried garfish with chilli salt was another winner off the specials board. I like how they deep fry the fish’s head, too; this makes them look friendly.

And even though the usual moneyed, silver-haired Malvern locals hang about in here with big rocks on their fingers and newly pulled back faces, Chun Po is also a family Chinese restaurant. It’s cheap.